Peru 3 – Sacred Valley (Cusco, Písac, Ollantaytambo, Machu Picchu)

Lucky me, to have a 2008, a 2011, and now a 2024 visit to the Sacred Valley, each time with at least one of my daughters, whose company is wonderful and whose Spanish gets me out of jams.

This trip, Laura rejoined me, bringing along with her partner, Marc, for the first time. It seemed fitting to suggest a trip to see the Inca and pre-Inca ruins since Marc and Laura are building a house of stone themselves.

Here's Marc at the beginnings of the shop he was building
Here’s Marc at the beginnings of the shop he was building, which is now complete.

Some day I’ll negotiate the rights to publish a detailed post on their off-the-grid land which Marc has rightly named Helm’s Deep.

Cusco and Sacsayhuamán

 

Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!
Ozymandias,
Percy Bysshe Shelley

 

We landed in Cusco at 11,000 feet, regrettable taking a taxi that took us to a relative’s hotel that had no vacancy, dropping us off on the least desirable avenue in Cusco, from where we walked uphill to nicer parts to find lodging.

Much of what we did in Cusco involved the ruins, walking twice to Sacsayhuamán.

If I ever understand how it was possible for some unknown peoples to erect such massive stone walls without mortar and with unique stones fitting millimeters apart, standing firmly for hundreds or thousands of years, I’ll add a post about it. For now, I’ll just touch on the business while mentioning some interesting and sometimes funny events of the Peru trip.

Here we are at Sacsayhuamán, just outside of Cusco. These rocks anticipate larger, more tightly placed rocks among these ruins, rendering the word “ruin,” a misnomer.

In 1553, Pedro Cieza de León was equally stupefied by the gigantic stonework of Sacsayhuamán (just walking distance from Cusco). He wrote,

And in these walls there were stones so large and mighty that it tired the judgment to conceive how they could have been conveyed and placed, and who could have had sufficient power to shape them, seeing that among these people there are so few tools. Some of these stones are of a width of twelve feet and more than twenty long, others are thicker than a bullock.
….
The Spaniards have so pillaged and ruined it, that I should be sorry to have been guilty of the fault of those in power who have permitted so magnificent a work to be so ruined. They have not considered the time to come, for it would have been better to have preserved the edifice and to have put a guard over it.”

According to “Sacsayhuamán”, archeologists have attempted to replicate the moving and placement of the stones with limited success, including a runaway 2,000 pound stone they were trying to lower down a mountain. None of the archeological explanations in that particular article even attempted—let alone succeeded—to explain how the stones could have been quarried and shaped perfectly on every side.

____Footnotes____

[1]The spellings of Sacsayhuamán illustrate well the collision between ethnological respect and orthography. The Wikipedia article currently begins, “Sacsayhuamán, Sacsayhuaman, Sacsahuaman, Saxahuaman, Saksaywaman, Saqsaywaman, Sasawaman, Saksawaman, Sacsahuayman, Sasaywaman or Saksaq Waman (possibly from Quechua language, waman falcon or variable hawk) is a citadel on the northern outskirts of the city of Cusco, Peru, the historic capital of the Inca Empire.”

Here’s a nine-minute slideshow of our recent trip to Peru that I put together for those who were in the left-behind (outside of Peru) series:

Zion National Park (Angels Landing Again)

My 2019 post, Zion National Park (Angels Landing), is much more informative than this one, this being primarily personal because for the first time I wondered if I’d actually “make it,” respecting the psychological law of hiking that inclines increase several degrees in steepness each year after one turns ~60. Continue reading “Zion National Park (Angels Landing Again)”

Four-day Colorado Road Trip

When my friend from Tulsa, a friend from antiquity (circa 1973), and I planned the road trip about four months ago, it probably involved rigorous backpacking. As it was, we did carry our tents and bags out of his car and set them up nearby in a mist of mosquitoes, and that’s roughing it for a few minutes. Continue reading “Four-day Colorado Road Trip”

Photos of Gijón, Spain & Konstanz, Germany

itinerary:

  • Oct. 5, fly Denver to Miami to Madrid to Gijón, Spain.
  • Oct. 14, fly Gijón to Madrid to Zurich, train to Konstanz, Germany.
  • Oct 18, Reverse that.
  • Oct 29, fly Gijón to Madrid to Chicago. Lose your day-pack with your laptop, razor, rain jacket, headlamp, and favorite hair brush (or have it stolen…dunno—it will have been a very long day). Chicago to Denver. Discover Lyft wants about $125 to go to Lafayette, so bus to Boulder and take Lyft from there.

Madrid

In the Madrid-Barajas airport, you cannot find out certain gate numbers until you get to Terminal 4 (T4, boasting “70 million passengers per year”). There you find T4S is set aside for countries, such as the US, that lie outside of the Schengen Area, the 26 EU countries that abolished their passport requirements. At T4S, you find, you hope, the H-J-K concourses, and only then can you learn the gate. Continue reading “Photos of Gijón, Spain & Konstanz, Germany”

Guest Entry – Balcony at Cliffs Club Kauai

This guest post is by Linda Grounds, née Burkhardt. It arose from her observations while on vacation in Hawaii. – Louis

The view was breathtaking.

From Balcony in Kauai #1
From Balcony in Kauai #1

From Balcony in Kauai #2
From Balcony in Kauai #2

A code of silence, unwritten yet understood, quieted the tongues of the vacationing balcony dwellers. Stilled, in reverence to the ancient emerald cliffs crowned with rainbows. Hushed, so that bird songs floated above a soft ocean roar. Whispered, to preserve rare moments. A whale spouting, a pod of dolphin playing, a turtle shadow beneath the sparkling foam. Continue reading “Guest Entry – Balcony at Cliffs Club Kauai”

Los Zacatitos, Third Visit (!)

This post is about my third trip to Zacatitos; my second trip here and my first trip here.

That I am traveling at all is a testament to the decline of covid19 in some parts of the world.

Yes, I must like this place…as well as el yerno, Don, y la hija, Sarah, who invited me—el suegro—down! (¡And that is the last of my Spanish through which you must suffer!)

burros
Who doesn’t dream of spending a week with a couple nice burros on the ocean’s edge? {photo by Sarah}

Continue reading “Los Zacatitos, Third Visit (!)”

Zion National Park (Angels Landing)

Flying Frontier

I fly Frontier, proudly, knowing at any juncture a flight might be late or canceled. Once I drove back from Tulsa to Denver because (1) the flight was canceled and (2) the Frontier employee told us, “Oh, and we don’t fly out of Tulsa tomorrow, so you’ll have to find a different airline.” Continue reading “Zion National Park (Angels Landing)”

Southern England: Revisited

One year after my previous trip, I repeated the opportunity to visit Chris, a friend from my undergraduate days, and Adrienne, his wife.

This time I came prepared with one request: that we visit the yellow cliffs popularized in the television series Broadchurch. Sometime in the intervening year I had watched and, really, become attached to that scenery. As one of the characters says,

Scene of Jurassic Coast from "Broadchurch"
Scene of Jurassic Coast from “Broadchurch”

It is gorgeous, and, I confess, once again life imitates art. Continue reading “Southern England: Revisited”

Peru 1 – Sacred Valley (Cusco, Machu Picchu & Inca Písac)

Brief and Tedious Preface

No, I have not recently returned from Peru, though I wish I had. Instead, I’m using some annotated photos from a 2008 trip and am converting them into an entry here. There are several unspeakable reasons for this.
Continue reading “Peru 1 – Sacred Valley (Cusco, Machu Picchu & Inca Písac)”

Los Zacatitos, Second Visit (and father East Cape)

This post is about my second trip to Zacatitos; my third trip here and my first trip here.

Baja Sur: Baja (Lower) California Sur (South). This current post is brief, following as it does on the heels of the lengthy post on Southern England, a short history and tour guide to key spots in that area.

Continue reading “Los Zacatitos, Second Visit (and father East Cape)”

Southern England: ‘Tis new to thee’

One would think that someone who had both taught Shakespeare and written a dissertation on the Globe playhouse would have made an early visit to England to know what he was talking about. Not I. Instead I waited about 25 years to visit, and not for a professional reason, but for the opportunity to visit Chris, a friend from my undergraduate days, and Adrienne, his wife.

Continue reading “Southern England: ‘Tis new to thee’”

Guest Entry – Washington D.C. (mostly)

This is adapted from an email Mindy sent (8/14/2017) while on a trip from Missouri to Washington D.C. Between her (un)timely visit to Charlottesville and breakfast in Trump’s hotel, the content may interest more than the original audience (and she’s given me permission to post it). – Louis

Here are the highlights from our (Mindy, Josh, and friends’) time in Washington D.C.

Washington Monument

Preface: Charlottesville

Before we went to D.C. we were in Charlottesville—I don’t have any pictures from it, but it was a really nice town with more cars than I prefer. Josh and I had a great time at a running store where a guy named Turtle sold Josh a new pair of runners and I really enjoyed hanging out with Sarah and Kyle and walking around and looking at the campus and shops and things. 

Continue reading “Guest Entry – Washington D.C. (mostly)”

Los Zacatitos, MX, First Visit

This post is about my first trip to Zacatitos; my second trip here and my third trip here.

Baja (lower) California is a peninsula comprised of two Mexican states, Baja California and the southern half, Baja California Sur. I spent a week at the southern end, a bit to the east of the Southern Cape, the beginning of East Cape. The nearest city with an international airport is San José del Cabo (Saint Joseph of the Cape).

Continue reading “Los Zacatitos, MX, First Visit”

The Road to Veracruz

Why Taxis Were Invented

Flew to Mexico City for a week-long visit with only two goals: meet a friend and return home in one piece. Arriving in the evening, I discovered my cell phone failed to find a signal (guess I forgot to figure that out), but the airport internet service allowed me to email my friend, BR, who was waiting in a different terminal. For fifteen years I had known him, yet we never met in person. Over this time (over the Internet), he proved himself to be a thoughtful, honest man who worked hard, harder than I, translating a gigantic medical book. So it seemed fitting to meet him as a friend, now that I had ended the employment that brought us together.

BR is a medical doctor turned translator. He’s a smart man, often correcting problems in the English text, usually medical inaccuracies but also some grammar.

Continue reading “The Road to Veracruz”

The Colorado Trail as One Can Pick it up at Molas Pass

The Colorado Trail

Starting near Molas Pass (which is about 6 miles outside Silverton), I hiked from Little Molas Lake trailhead westward about 5 miles, to spend the (lightening filled) night on the Colorado Trail.

Continue reading “The Colorado Trail as One Can Pick it up at Molas Pass”